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Hands-on with the Longines Ultra-Chron Diver Watch

Jewellery & Watch News

Swiss watch manufacturer Longines made history back in 1959 with the launch of the world’s very first hi-beat wristwatch. Almost a decade later, the brand launched the Longines Ultra-Chron Diver, an “ultra-chronometer” based on the original hi-beat movement boasting a deviation of no more than two seconds per day. Now continuing on their legacy for precision is the new 2022 Longines Ultra-Chron Diver, a re-edition of the 1968 model debuting a new hi-beat calibre.

The Case

Aesthetically, the new Longines Ultra-Chron watch offers everything you’d want from a historic reissue timepiece, faithfully reviving the cushion-shaped architecture of the original 1960’s model. The stainless steel case has been increased in sizedslightly, calling to most modern-day wrists, upping from 41mm to 43mm. Other dimensions include a height of 13.4mm and a lug to lug distance of 48mm. The same curved lugs are present as well as the black unidirectional rotating bezel with ratcheted detailing. For a nice upgrade, the bezel neglects the old-school bakelite insert and opts for a black sapphire insert decorated with white luminous numerals and a triangle marker at 12 o’clock and a red graduated track.

For additional scratch resistance, the Longines Ultra-Chron Diver watch for 2022 features sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment allowing for easy legibility of the dial beneath. The glass is also box-shaped adding to the vintage appeal. Turning the case around and a closed case back reveals a special engraving dedicated to the hi-beat movement within. The case back is screwed which alongside the screw in crown at 3 o’clock ensures a water resistant rating of 300 metres. The Longines Ultra-Chron watch also comes with a choice of two straps. The first is a brown leather strap with pin buckle (L2.836.4.52.9) and the second is a fine-link stainless steel bracelet (L2.836.4.52.8). Both options are delivered in a large wooden presentation box which comes with an additional black and red striped NATO strap and a strap changing tool.

The Dial

The dial of the new Longines Ultra-Chron watch also neatly mimics that of the original with a matte black grained finish adorned with the same faceted metal hour markers and rectangle hands. The hour markers at each 15 minute position are set with Superluminova inserts for glow in the dark readability to match the luminous accents on the hour and minute hands. The minute hands stands out significantly for its bold red decoration which pairs nicely with the red touches on the bezel. The only real difference on the dial of the 2022 edition Longines Ultra-Chron Diver and the 1960’s piece is the lack of a date window, a change we can get on board with thanks to its clean and sleeker charm.

The Movement

The true novelty of the Longines Ultra-Chron watch is the movement within, and it was something the Swiss watch manufacturer had to get right. You’ll be pleased to know they have, opting for a brand new Longines automatic winding calibre named the L836.6. It takes its base from an ETA movement and modifies it with a hi-beat frequency of 5Hz, or 36,600 vibrations per hour. It’s also equipped with an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and a power reserve of 52 hours. The latter is less than what we’ve seen from Longines movements before, but this is purely down to the increase frequency rate.

As its name attests, the Longines Ultra-Chron watch is a chronometer but not certified as you’d expect by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). Instead, Longines have entrusted an independent laboratory called TimeLab. Following a 15-day testing period which sees the Longines Ultra-Chron tested in five positions and at three temperatures, it has been recognised as an ultra-chronometer meaning its precision exceeds that of COSC. With the sale of each watch, you’ll get a certificate detailing this accreditation.

Price & Availability

The Longines Ultra-Chron Diver on a brown leather strap retails at £3,000 while the stainless steel bracelet variant comes in a little higher at £3,150. If you’d like to learn more about the new release and shop it for yourself, head over to the C W Sellors website here. Alternatively, get in touch with the team by calling 01335 453453 or send us a message at sales@cwsellors.com.

Specifications:

  • Case Size: 43mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Bezel: Unidirectional with sapphire insert, 60 minute Superluminova scale
  • Glass: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
  • Crown: Screw down
  • Case Back: Screwed
  • Water Resistance: 300 metres
  • Movement: Calibre L836.6 automatic winding, “ultra-chronometer” certified by Timelab
  • Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
  • Power Reserve: 52 hours
  • Jewels: 25
  • Frequency: 36,600vph
  • Dial: Matte black grained, Superluminova hands and indexes, red minutes hand
  • Strap: Black leather or metal bracelet
  • Limited Edition: No
  • RRP: £3,000

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