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Introducing IWC Portugieser Watches

Jewellery & Watch News

The IWC Portugieser is arguably one of the most iconic timepiece designs in the world, with sophisticated yet imposing sizes, simple Arabic numerals, elegant feuille hands and remarkable in-house mechanical movements. An unrivalled style icon, the collection integrates many of the brand’s most impressive innovations of haute horologerie including complications like chronograph, moonphase and their famous high precision perpetual calendar feature which requires no adjustment for 577 years.

As newly authorised stockists for IWC Schaffhausen, we at C W Sellors wanted to delve a little further into this breathtaking collection and reveal to you all it’s remarkable history and some of the latest releases for 2020. Whether you’re entirely new to the world of IWC watches or you’re a well-versed collector looking for your next coveted piece, we are certain the IWC Portugieser watch collection will have something for you.

The history of the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser began in 1930 when two Portuguese gentlemen named Rodrigues and Antonio Teixera approached the Swiss manufacturer and asked for a large wristwatch with the precision of a marine chronometer. This request was no easy feat and the only way of fulfilling it was by using their Calibre 74 hunter pocket watch movement within a large (for that time) 43mm case. At first, the design had no name until someone at the manufacture started using the term “Reference 325”. The piece had a slim bezel, simple Arabic numerals and a stunning railway-track style chapter ring which eventually became known as the first IWC Portugieser watch.

If you compare the original images of the first IWC Portugieser with their latest 2020 watch releases, it is clear to see that the overall aesthetics have changed very little. The most significant changes come from contemporary improvements to the glass, which is now sapphire crystal across the board and to the movements inside. IWC Schaffhausen have made the bold step of incorporating almost the entirety of the new 2020 IWC Portugieser collection with their own in-house movements which only further increases the value propositions for these watches.

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

For 2020, IWC concentrated most of their efforts on their Portugieser collection and alongside the new releases was a range of IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 watches. Still inspired by the original Portugieser 325, these simple yet sophisticated wristwatches honour the original’s clean aesthetics with an elegant chapter ring, Arabic numerals, and small seconds at 6 o clock but in a smaller case size of 40mm.

Hidden within the new reference is the in-house calibre 82 resulting in a contemporary automatic watch with a power reserve of 60 hours. It also showcases a frequency of 28,800vph, 31 jewels and stunning Côtes de Genève decoration which can be seen through the exhibition case back. There are several IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 designs to choose from including silver and blue dials or stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold cases.

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IWC Portugieser Chronograph

One of the collection’s best-selling designs, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph also remains faithful to its original predecessor alongside some contemporary improvements including a new in-house manufacture calibre. The calibre 69 can be seen through the sapphire case back and provides a power reserve of 46 hours. As always, the Portugieser chronograph with its purity in design and functionality as a chronograph effortlessly represents the IWC values of craftsmanship, technology and design.

There are nine references of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph to choose from including 41mm stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold cases paired with a choice of a silver, blue, black, burgundy, slate grey or green coloured dials. The dials are beautifully detailed with a sunburst pattern and are kept almost entirely the same as the historic original apart from the addition of the IWC logo. Each variation is complimented by black, blue or brown alligator leather straps.

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club has always marked the sportier end of the Portugieser collection since its debut in 2010 and the new 2020 releases continue this approach with two new designs. First up is the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph which has been reworked slightly in its size and variability with a 42mm case and a metal bracelet which offers a prestigious and elegant way to wear the iconic piece.

The second instalment is the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide which incorporates a unique complication that allows wearers to observe expected time for the next high and low tide while the dual moonphase feature allows the display of spring and neap tides. Both variations of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club are available in a stunning selection of designs including stainless steel and 18 carat rose gold cases, bi-coloured or full metal bracelets and silver or blue dials.

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IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42

Last but certainly not least is the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42. The IWC Perpetual Calendar complication has long been one of the brand’s most legendary, first developed by Kurt Klaus in the 1980s. The movement comprises of only 80 parts and displays the date, day, month, year and the moon phase and automatically recognises the different length of the months including leap days. The moon phase display is so precise that it will deviate from the actual phase of the moon by just one day after 577.5 years.

The new collection of IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 watches provide a smaller case size for those of us who found the regularly 44.2mm a little too big. The 42.4mm cases are available in stainless steel or 18 carat rose gold with a silver or blue dial and a selection of alligator leather straps. To pair with the small profile, each piece is equipped with the Calibre 82650 self-winding movement which provides a 60 hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800bph.

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