There are several qualities to a Nomos watch worth appreciating, especially those enthusiasts looking to add a unique talking point to their watch collection. Firstly, Nomos is a German-based watch manufacturer, nestled in the small town of Glashutte, home to several other prestigious manufacturers within the luxury watch industry. Secondly, Nomos watches have a distinct Bauhaus-style aesthetic, enabling each one to stand out on the wrist as a focal feature to smart, professional or elegant attire. Thirdly, Nomos crafts all of its beautiful timepieces in-house. The ability to do this has enabled the company to shine when compared against its rivals, pitching its products at an affordable price, thus appealing to a much broader scope of clientele.
Minimal flowing forms and clean, credentials are characteristic of any Nomos watch. Founded in 1990 by Roland Schwertner, the independent watch manufacturer is still considered relatively young and has enjoyed much success as it now enters its third decade of craftsmanship. For any company to be recognised as an authentic Glashutte watchmaker, it must produce at least 50% of its watches independently or source the parts for each timepiece locally. Moving away from third party products proved to be a wise move by Nomos since it granted the company freedom over the style and manufacture of its watches thereafter.
In the first twelve months of establishing itself, Nomos launched its first line of striking timepieces. The Tangente, Ludwig and Orion remain some of the most popular picks within the company’s catalogue. Designer Susan E Gunther collaborated with the brand to bring about a distinct style that would come to be known and loved all over the world, not just in Germany. Nomos watches that were round in shape were first developed with a 35mm diameter. Alternatively, the square models, with their 38mm width made them suitably sized and capable of conveying a presence on the wrist. That said, each timepiece could also appeal to both the male and female audience.
As previously mentioned, between the years 1992 and 2003 Nomos went from sourcing third party movements to creating its own in house movements. Before this, the engines were based on the Peseux 7001 Calibre but adorned with some additional Glashutte decoration. The movements were also coated with rhodium to resist oxidation, as well as being laser blasted and gilded by Nomos artisans. The Tangomat marked the release of the brand’s first in house engine, the Nomos Epsilon. Similarly, the movement inside the Tangente was also swapped with an independently crafted movement called the Alpha, enabling the brand to be able to move away from having their movements stamped with the ETA name. Up until 2014, these movements would still feature in externally sourced escapements.
Nomos’ first in house escapement was called the Swing System. Meticulously crafted, the mechanism is a result of months of elaborate design, knowledge and specialist skill. It powered the Nomos Metro, a timepiece characterised by its vibrant injection of colour, designed by Mark Braun. The model has remained popular, particularly for its unmistakable 1930s styling. Another reliable and noteworthy innovation worth mentioning is the Nomos DUW 3001 movement, which featured in the Nomos Neomatik watch and became an engine recognised for its reliability in 2015.
Later, Nomos decided to redesign and reinvent models from the Orion, Tetra Metro and Tangente lines with a more professional look to coincide with the company’s launch of the “At Work” concept. Those looking to begin their collection with a practical and more affordable wristwatch, however, should consider the timepieces from the Nomos Club and Nomos Club Campus range. These are considered the brand’s entry level timepieces, with a more reserved, pared down look compared to other variations from the Nomos catalogue.
